Asked on the Fish Forum by donna marie (bunzy) on 7/1/02, 7:32 pm
Q: Is my beta dying?
Basically, I have had my beta for over 2 yrs now. His name is "Robert Lee". For the past month Robert has not been swimming much and he doesnt get excited anymore when he is about to be fed. His stomach is very large like he has a tumor. Im not sure if this is possible. And his respiratory rate is very rapid. Im a nurse and if this was one of my patients I would know he/she is dying. What I want to know is does it sound like Robert is dying to you? Do you think it is worth taking him to the vet? This is the first pet i have ever had so im taking it pretty rough. Any help you can give i would appreciate. Thank you.
Answered by Kyle £. on 7/2/02, 10:58 am
A: Is my beta dying?
ya sad to say but I think he is dying.
Why take it to the vet? the vet can't save him from dying.
Answered by WD on 7/2/02, 12:55 pm
A: Waterconditions
Sounds like he's been the victim of poor water conditions :( When water conditions (PH, Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates) go wrong, it allows disease to take hold on the fish and affect them. Don't bother taking him to the vet... it's honestly not worth it as most vets will turn you away :(
He sounds like he has abdominal dropsy, meaning he's collected fluid (absorbed water) in his tummy in a way that he's taking in more than he can expel :( Dropsy is tricky to diagnose and even TRICKIER to cure. Some fish get better on their own, others just die :( If he's having troubles breathing, try placing another airstone (I hope you have one!) in the tank to diffuse more oxygen into the water for him to breathe.
Depending on how "Robert" lived is what might have gotten him. Bettas in vases usually do poorly. With no filter (to get rid of Ammonia and Nitrites) they are swimming in their own waste. And even in tanks, fishies are not always safe. To prevent your next fish from getting sick and shoving off this mortal coil (dying ^_~) you need to keep in check of your water conditions. A test kit can be purchased at any pet store that sells aquatic supplies, the water should test like this:
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrites: 0 ppm
Nitrates: Not more than 20 ppm
PH: (this can depend on the fish, with a betta: 7.0-7.8
(PH needs to be the same every day, a fluctiuation
can seriously harm your fish)
Temp: Bettas need heat! 70-80 degrees (this needs to stay constant) is acceptable.
In any new tank (bettas need at least 5 gallons to start out with!) a process called cycling must be done to assume ammonia and nitrite problems don't hurt your little fishie friend. Cycling is the process in which you fully set up the tank and let it sit to allow the bacteria to form... here is what needs to be set up in the tank (Also you do this BEFORE adding or buying fish):
One biological filter (usually powerfilters work best)
This filter needs to have media, as in the little pouch/bag that goes in should be in like there was fish in the tank
Fish food (you will need to feed the tank :) This sounds crazy but the food fools the aquarium into thinking fish are making waste when the food dissolves into ammonia.
Any undergravel filter you may have should be put in. And gravel also placed in. Plants and decorations should be in there too. As well as the heater ^^
The water needs to be in. Pretty much run the aquarium like there were fish in it ^^
Since I know I can be confusing, everything below is from Vickey, laid out more simply and explains more so you can fully understand ^^
Here are the facts on tank cycling and it’s importance:
To “cycle†a tank simply means to establish a healthy bacteria colony in the aquarium BEFORE adding the fish. Fish eat food, which turns to waste, which decomposes in the tank, and turns into ammonia. Ammonia is both stressful and deadly to fish. These beneficial bacteria colonies living in your aquarium consume deadly ammonia as their primary food source.
To place a fish in an un-cycled tank (one with no bacteria colonies thriving) is to mean certain stress and possible death for your fish. Ninety percent of all fish cannot handle the ammonia spike that results after several days in an un-cycled aquarium.
There are actually two colonies of different strains of bacteria. The first type consume the ammonia as their food source. They in turn emit nitrite into the water as their waste product. The second type of bacteria consume the nitrite as their food source and emit nitrate into the water. Nitrate is nothing more than plant food! It is only harmful to fish in very high concentrations.
WHERE the biological filtration takes place is just as important as why it takes place. These two types of bacteria must have a suitable environment to colonize on to ensure their survival and proliferation. The best options are an undergravel filter or a bio-wheel filter. Both are specially designed biological filtration systems and cater to bacteria colonies.
If you opt for an undergravel filter, you must be sure to vacuum the gravel weekly and change at least 25%% of the water. Also remember to keep the air stones going in the lift tubes. The stones help push oxygenated water underneat the filter plates and through the gravel, which is where the bacteria live. An undergravel filter is almost useless if not oxygenated properly.
If you choose the bio-wheel, be sure to provide another filter as well. Bio-wheels were not meant to remove particles from the water, nor do they contain activated carbon. You must provide a hanging or canister style filter to mechanically and chemically filter the water as well. Some bio-wheel setups come complete with the above mentioned "pre-filter" so there is no need to buy another.
If you provide neither an undergravel filter or a bio-wheel, you must have two power filters in the tank. The media should be replaced in the filters on a rotating basis. First rinse them in tank water removed from the tank every couple of weeks. When the media is deteriorating, replace it completely. But never replace both sets of filter media at the same time! Wait at least 5 weeks and then replace the other one. This way there will always be sufficient bacteria inhabiting one set of media at all times.
What should you do to cycle your tank? Follow these instructions very carefully and you will save you and your fish weeks of heartache, sickness and death.
1. Fully set up your aquarium with gravel, filter, heater, water, plants, decorations, etc.
2. For the next 3 weeks, place a pinch of fish food in the tank every 2-3 days just as if your fish were in the tank.
3. At the end of the 3 week period, thoroughly vacuum the gravel to remove all the uneaten food.
4. Change 50%% of your water.
5. Test the water parameters with test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. They should be as follows: Ammonia 0ppm, Nitrite 0ppm, Nitrate Less than 25ppm, and pH can be anywhere from 7.0-7.8 as long as it remains steady. (ppm means parts per million.)
6. If your parameters are anything except that listed above, “feed†the tank for one more week. At the end of that week, thoroughly vacuum and change 50%% of the water again. Test parameters again. If they are still too high, vacuum and change 25%% of the water. Test again. Continue in this fashion for another week if necessary until the above listed values have been attained.
ANOTHER WAY TO CYCLE
1. Fully set up your aquarium with gravel, filter, heater, water, plants, decorations, etc.
2. Obtain a cupful or more of gravel, and some filter media from a healthy, fully cycled aquarium of a friend. Place both into your tank. This will speed the process up considerably.
3. Place a pinch of fish food in the tank every 2-3 days for the next 2 weeks just as if fish were in the tank.
4. At the end of the 2 week period, thoroughly vacuum the gravel to remove all the uneaten food.
5. Change 50%% of your water.
5. Test the water parameters with test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. They should be as follows: Ammonia 0ppm, Nitrite 0ppm, Nitrate Less than 25ppm, and pH can be anywhere from 7.0-7.8 as long as it remains steady. (ppm means parts per million.)
